Vermicomposting is simply composting with worms.
The best kind of earthworm to use is the redworm
(a.k.a. red wiggler). These worms are incredible
garbage eaters! They eat and expel their own weight
every day, so even a small bin of redworms will
yield pounds of rich sweet-smelling compost. Finished
compost can be harvested in as little as two to
three months. Redworms are extremely prolific. It
takes about three weeks for fertilized eggs to develop
in a cocoon from which two or more young worms can
hatch. In three months the worms are sexually mature
and will start breeding. Within a year you'll be
able to give worms away to get a friend started!
What do I need?
a bin
worms
bedding
Bins
To get a worm bin you can:
Buy a plastic storage bin (with a lid) from
a hardware or department store and convert it
into a bin for worm composting. Drill eight
to ten holes (approx. 1 cm or 1/4") in
the bottom for drainage. Line the bottom with
fine nylon mesh to prevent the worms from escaping.
Place the bin on blocks with a tray underneath.
Build one from wood. The Recycling Council
of Ontario (RCO) has a design sheet with instructions.
The container should be shallow (8 - 12" deep),
and provide one square foot of surface area for
every pound of food waste per week (i.e. six pounds
of food waste requires a bin 2' x 3'.)
Number of People
Quantity of Worms
Bin Size
1 or 2
1 lb.
1' x 1.5' x 2'
2 or 3
1 lb.
1' x 2' x 2'
4 to 6
2-3 lbs.
1' x 2' x 3.5'
Worms
See Suppliers
for a list of companies that sell worms.
Bedding
Redworms can survive and breed in many kinds of
bedding materials.
The important thing to remember is that the red
wiggler will eat its own bedding. Materials such
as hand- shredded newspaper, composted manure, dampened
peat moss, or leaves can all be used. (Make sure
to mix peat moss with other bedding as it is too
acidic to use alone.) You can also purchase prepared
bedding which may be machine-ground paper either
alone or mixed with loam. See Suppliers.
Dampen the bedding until the moisture level is like
a well-wrung sponge. Fill the bin 3/4 full with
bedding. Add the worms. Since worms don't like light,
they will quickly crawl down into the bedding.
What and how do I feed them?
Worms will eat just about any type of kitchen
waste including vegetables and fruits, coffee
grinds, tea bags and egg shells. Avoid putting
in meats and fats. You can feed your worms every
few days, or once a week if you prefer. Simply
pull aside some of the bedding, bury the food
waste, and cover it with bedding. Each time you
feed the worms, choose a different location to
bury the food. Note that egg shells will maintain
the bedding at a safe pH level. Without them the
bedding may become too acidic. When adding egg
shells you should:
Let the shells dry out,
Crush them finely with a rolling pin,
Sprinkle approximately one tablespoon per pound
of worms onto your bedding every week.
Can worms live outside during colder months?
Worms prefer temperatures between 40 and 80 degrees
Fahrenheit. If you live in an apartment building
they can live quite happily out on the balcony until
temperatures drop to 40 degrees. After that they
should be taken indoors. If you use an insulated
worm bin, however, the bin can remain outdoors year-around.
Insulated bins are available commercially, (see
Suppliers),
or you can make your own.
How can I harvest the finished compost?
After about three months you'll notice that the
volume of materials has dropped substantially
and the original bedding is no longer recognizable.
This means it's time to harvest the finished compost
and add fresh bedding. *Note: Finished compost may
become toxic to organisms if it is left inside the bin for an
extended period of time. Here are two ways to harvest:
Move the contents of the bin to one side. Add
fresh bedding to the vacant side. Put food scraps
into the fresh bedding only, so the worms will
move from the finished compost in search of food.
After one or two weeks, remove the finished compost.
Dump the contents of the bin onto a large plastic
sheet, and separate into small cone- shaped piles.
Place a bright light above the sheet. The worms
will move down away from the light. Remove the
finished compost from the top of each pile. A
small pile of worms will remain at the bottom.
Place these into the bin with fresh bedding.
How can I use the finished compost?
Vermicompost will provide nutrients to your plants
and will help the soil hold moisture. It can be
used in a number of different ways:
Sprinkle into a seed row when planting.
When transplanting, add a handful of soil to
the hole you have dug for the plant.
Use as a top dressing, sprinkling the compost
around the base of your plants.
Mix with potting soil (half and half) for house
plants.
Troubleshooting
What can I do about fruit flies in and around
my worm bin?
The best approach is prevention. When you add
food scraps, always bury them under the bedding.
Be sure they are well covered with about 3"
of bedding material. As an extra measure, you
can also put a bit of fresh bedding on top.
Keep a tight lid on the container you use to
store food scraps before adding them to the bin.
This will prevent flies from laying eggs in the
scraps.
If a lot of fruit flies fly out of the bin
when you lift the lid, you can suck them up with
a vacuum cleaner.
Use a trap. Pour a half-cup of beer into a
small glass jar. Place a plastic bag over the
mouth of the jar with one corner reaching down
into the jar. Poke a small hole in the corner
of the bag with a pencil. Secure the bag around
the rim with a rubber band. Fruit flies will be
attracted by the beer, make their way through
the hole, and be unable to get out. (From "Worms
Eat My Garbage".)
Will a worm bin smell?
It is unlikely that your worm bin will have an
unpleasant odour. If it does, there are a number
of possible causes and steps you can take to remedy
the problem.
Problem: You have overloaded the bin with too
many food scraps. Solution: Give the worms a break
and don't add any food scraps for a week or so.
Problem: The bedding is too wet and compacted.
Solution: Check the drainage holes to make sure
they are not blocked and drill more holes if needed.
Gently stir up the entire contents to allow more
air in, and add some fresh dry bedding.
Problem: The bin is too acid. Solution: Add
very finely crushed egg shells to neutralize the
acidity.
The Thunder Bay VermiComposting Network
Click here for information about the Thunder Bay Vermicomposting Network, a group interested in Vermicomposting which was begun at Lakehead University in Thunder Bay.
Vermicomposting
Suppliers
In addition to selling worms, some of these companies
also sell worm bins and bedding. If the company
sells a `kit', inquire about what the kit includes.
Prices vary according to dealer, so you may wish
to shop around. The worms are generally picked up
in person or delivered by courier. An * indicates
dealers that also carry the book Worms Eat My Garbage
by Mary Appelhof. Some sell other publications as
well.
Local Dealers
Earth Works - Composting Eco-Systems & Vermiculture -- Leslie Kirkby (807) 476-0928 email: earthworksecosystems at gmail dot com.
